The group heads back north via long, straight roads through prairie, with more snow-covered peaks towards the west, rising steadily towards the north. They block the progress of the clouds. A warm, dry day is promised.
We take a pit stop at Longview, a small town with a gas station, liquor store, motel and little more. Large pick-up trucks pull over to shop for ‘world famous’ jerky. The source of the town’s name is obvious. The vista is flat and far-reaching, with grassland in all directions.
61km from Calgary we turn west towards the sawtooth peaks and Kananaskis country. Thick pine forests fill the lower mountain slopes. I spot a bighorn sheep by a river.
Finally, a bear is sighted, a young Grizzly wearing a radio collar. It grazes by the side of the road, unconcerned by spectators.
Beyond is the start of the Ptarmigan Cirque Trail, a short 2km loop. The route is steep to begin with, often through slush. The loop turns back by a waterfall and I’m tempted by a 600m diversion to ‘Waterfall View’. I pause to watch a pair of chipmunks chasing each other. One pauses inches away from my foot.
The way is steep again, crossing loose stone and snow. It’s a struggle and the waterfall proves to be a trickle but the sweep of bald, grey mountains around is worth the entry price.
Once again I find our tour leader waiting for me lower down the route. I am making a habit of exploring beyond our planned routes. We rejoin the group, pausing to admire a gorge between the bare rock and forest.
Tonight we camp in the midst of forest, 20 minutes walk from showers and well away from any phone signal. A dark eagle glides over. (Others in the group saw one grab then drop a chipmunk – it survived). Mosquitoes are also about, the kind that can bite through thick socks. A fire is lit to ward off the evening chill.
William Potter's Travel Journals 